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Different kinds of kimono

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The Obi

The obi has taken on many forms over the centuries. While once it was a simple sash designed to tie and secure the kimono, it has evolved into a sophisticated, decorative element in kimono fashion. The obi is classified based on the type of fabric used, the width of the band, the type of occasion for which it will be worn, the time of the year, the way it is tied or the style of the bow and whether it is to be worn by a single or married woman, a man or a boy. The obi averages about 10" wide and 13 -14' long. The obi worn with the casual kimono or yukata is typically made of fine linen or a woven fabric and tends to be narrower in width. The obi worn with the traditional kimono is usually made of a heavier-weight silk which can be woven or a brocade, textured or decorated with a design.

There are over 300 different ways that the obi can be tied, however, there are a couple of basic styles which are most popular. The taiko-obi gets its name from the Taiko-bashi which means "Drum Bridge". The taiko-obi therefore loosely resembles a drum and there are a number of versions of this style of bow. The taiko-obi is very traditional and generally worn by married women. A popular bow style worn by unmarried women at more formal occasions is the fukura suzume (plump sparrow) which resembles a sparrow with it's wings spread.

There are a number of important accessories used in securing and adorning the obi. The obi-ita is a flat, stiff waist band which keeps the kimono in place and provides a good base for the obi. The obi-makura which literally means "obi-pillow" is a thick pad which is inserted into the obi while it is tied to give the obi bow shape and form. The obi-age is usually made from shibori (crepe) and is used to secure the obi-makura. It is tied in the front and the ends are tucked into the front of the obi. Since the obi-age is seen, it is color coordinated with the rest of the outfit. The obi-jime is a braided or sewn cord made of silk, satin or gold or silver brocade and is tied around the center of the obi. The obi-dome is a broach which is fastened to a cord similar to the obi-jime and also tied around the center of the obi. It used strictly for accent and not considered an essential part of kimono fashion.

Different kinds of kimono

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How to wear a Kimono

The kimono is typically about three feet longer than the distance between the shoulders and the feet. It is therefore first tied at the waist with a koshi-himo or "hip sash" made of a lightweight fabric so that it is just long enough to cover the foot-line. Then the excess fabric is carefully folded down over the koshi-himo. (This folded edge must be long enough so that it shows beneath the bottom of the obi creating an even, parallel line.) Then, another koshi-himo is tied over the fold at the waist securing it in place. The date-jime (waistband) is wrapped around the waist which is the last step in putting on the kimono.

The obi is then tied by starting with placing the obi over the left shoulder so that the front or short end (te) just reaches the waist, and the long end (tare) drapes to the floor over the back. The tare is wrapped around the waist, the obi-ita is inserted in the front, and the tare is wrapped around the waist again. The tare is placed over the right shoulder, a temporary sash is used to secure it in place. The obi-makura (pillow) is tied in place by the obi-age so that the fullest part of the "pillow" is where the fullest part of the obi bow will be. The obi is then carefully tied and secured creating whichever obi bow style is desired. The ends of the obi-age are tucked into the top front of the obi. The obi-jime is then fed through the bow in the back and is tied in the center, front of the obi.

Different kinds of kimono

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Different kinds of Kimono

There are many different kinds of kimono. Here is a simple breakdown:

Popular Kimono

Omeshi is a versatile kimono considered appropriate for visiting or daily wear. Typically omeshi are made out of silk, however, rather than a colorful floral motif as is popular in more formal kimonos, the fabric usually consists of striped pattern, a special woven pattern (kasuri) or a geometric design inspired by nature. They are usually tied with a simple half-width obi.
Wool kimonos not only serve to protect against the cold but are considered versatile and easy to care for and therefore very convenient.
Yukata is an unlined cotton kimono. Originally yukata were worn when coming out of a Japanese bath or hot spring, however recently they have also become popular in summer as a casual kimono alternative. The fabric consists of a simple pattern of indigo and white, however sometimes other colors are used. The simple half-width obi is tied at the waist and wooden clogs (geta) are worn. The yukata is popularly worn during summer family outings to festivals and fireworks displays.
Johfu are kimono hand-woven of fine linen and are a little more formal than the yukata. The inner-garment collar is color coordinated and visible. Silk or fine cotton woven obi are tied at the waist.

Formal Kimono

Kuro tomesode is a formal kimono worn by married women. It has a black field decorated on the bottom with an elegant, usually floral, design - and the husband's family crest, in white, appears in 5 places: on the back of both sleeves, on the left and right breast and high on the back mid-seam. The inner-garment collar is white, the more formal fukuro or double-fold obi is used and zohri (Japanese sandals) are worn with white tabi (split-toed socks). The sleeves are considerably shorter in length than those of the furisode and therefore the tomesode is considered more appropriate for married women.
Iro tomesode is like the kuro tomesode except that instead of black, the background is usually a light color. It was originally worn by ladies of the court, however today, it is worn at formal occasions.
Furisode which means "waving sleeve" is a kimono with very long, full sleeves. It was once thought that a young woman could "wave" the "sleeves" of her kimono and win the heart of a man even from afar. The furisode was then as it is now, reserved for unmarried women. It is colorful and made of the finest silk meticulously decorated by hand painting, detailed embroidery and gold leafing. The obi, zohri and accessories are chosen to compliment the colors of the kimono and are usually bright and cheerful. The furisode is most like the kimono worn by young geisha.
Hohmongi is a more casual version of the tomesode or the furisode which is worn when visiting someone. Hohmon literally means "visit" and gi means an item which is worn.
Uchikake is a full-length outer robe which was worn by ladies of samurai or noble families on formal occasions. Today it is worn over the shiromuku as part of the traditional bridal costume.
Shiromuku literally means "white, pure" and it has been worn by brides for centuries as it still is today. It symbolizes the bride's purity and willingness to fit into her husband's family.
Mofuku or mourning wear is a black kimono devoid of any pattern except for the five family crests. The obi and all accessories are also black except for tabi, which are white.

Kimono for Men

Kimono for men are usually of subdued color and little or no pattern. The ceremonial kimono is the kuro-montsuki which literally means "black - with the family crest." The kuro-montsuki is made of black silk and is decorated with the family crest, in white, which appears in 5 places: on the back of both sleeves, on the left and right breast and high on the back mid-seam. The inner kimono collar can be white, gray or brown. The haori or mid-length kimono jacket is worn over the kuro-montsuki. The haori is also made of black silk, decorated with the 5 family crests and is tied with white silk cord. The hakama is a long pleated skirt made of striped silk, usually gray and black in color. White tabi (split-toed socks) are worn with simple, striped zohri (Japanese sandals). The kaku (stiff) obi is tied low on the waist. The only accessory is a white folding fan which is either held in the hand or inserted in top of the hakama.

For informal occasions, the kimono can be in various shades of brown and gray and made of spun silk or wool. The kaku-obi is used and tabi are dark blue and are worn with either zohri or geta. The cotton summer kimono is worn with the heko (soft) obi and with geta without tabi. The yukata is popularly worn during summer family outings to festivals and fireworks displays.

Kimono for Children

Just like adults, it is customary for children to wear yukata to outings like summer festivals and fireworks displays. Another time of year when it is popular for children to wear kimono is on November 15th in celebration of the festival, shichigosan. Shichigosan literally means "seven, five, three". Typically children of three, five and seven years of age dress in ceremonial kimono and go to Shinto shires for blessings. The girls wear very colorful kimono and adorn their hair with cheerful hair ornaments. Young boys wear a kimono and haori decorated with the family crest and pleated pants or hakama which are lightly patterned.

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Kimono Fabrics

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Kimono Accessories

Undergarments include the hadajuban which is a lightweight wraparound cotton or linen undershirt and the susoyoke which is a full-length half slip. Over that the nagajuban or full-length under-kimono is worn which is made of a medium-weight fabric. The nagajuban is secured with a waistband called a date-jime. The han-eri which literally means "half-collar" is sewn into the kimono collar in order to create a clean, crisp neckline.
Haori is a lightweight jacket worn over more formal kimonos. It can vary in length and pattern depending on the occasion. The word haori is derived from the verb, "haoru" which means "to put on". There are other jackets or coats also worn over the kimono including the michiyuki which is a longer coat generally worn when traveling, the dohchuh-gi which is a more casual coat worn to protect from dust or the cold and a raincoat which is specially designed to be worn over the kimono.
Hair ornaments in the form of hair combs or hairpins are used when wearing a kimono since the hair is typically worn up, off the neck. They are typically made of natural wood, lacquered wood, tortoise shell and metal and they are usually painted or decorated with beads of jade and coral. The type of hair ornament used is determined by the age of the woman, the occasion and the style of the kimono itself.
There are special purses designed for use with kimonos. They are usually rather small in size and can be made from leather and a variety of fine fabrics. The purse is coordinated with the rest of the outfit and often times it reflects the color or style of the zohri being worn.

Footwear

Tabi are socks which are split between the big toe and the rest of the toes so that zohri or geta can be worn comfortably. They are made of a sturdy woven fabric, and are bright white in color, except sometimes men wear black ones on certain occasions.
Zohri are Japanese sandals worn with tabi. The base of zohri have traditionally been made of lacquered wood however today, zohri are commonly made of sturdy vinyl. The straps can made of a variety of materials and patterns including woven cloth, brocade, leather, vinyl, etc. Zohri are chosen based on the kimono to be worn and the occasion.
Geta are elevated wooden sandals which are typically worn without tabi and with the casual kimono or yukata. The wood base can be made of cypress, oak, cedar, etc. with a natural finish and the straps are usually made of woven fabric, velveteen or leather.