TASTING AND GRADING SAKÉ

Saké, much like fine wine, is evaluated and graded based on its aroma and flavor. There are three basic grades: tokkyu (first grade), ikkyu (second grade) and nikkyu (third grade). This grading system is administered by the regional officers of the Central Advisory Committee of the National Tax Administration Agency of the Treasury Ministry which is responsible for levying and collecting taxes on the sale of saké.

At each brewery (kura) there is a tohji or master-brewer who typically is the farmer who plants and harvests the sakami (rice for saké), manages the entire brewing process and is responsible for evaluating the saké at each phase of production to ensure the highest-quality product. The quality of the water and rice; the polishing process; the making of koji, the addition of rice, water and koji to the moromi during fermentation; the ambient temperature, humidity and light, are all factors which must be closely supervised throughout the saké-making process. Each year the Ministry of Labor recognizes "100 Great Craftsmen" for their contribution to Japan's cultural heritage and since saké brewing is considered one of Japan's great cultural traditions, tohji are regularly selected for this honor.

Saké is principally evaluated in terms of amakuchi (sweet) or karakuchi (dry). It is further evaluated in terms of the "five essential flavors" or goromi. They are karami (dryness), amami (sweetness), nigami (bitterness), shibumi (a flavor somewhere between astringent and tart) and sanmi (acidity). This method of evaluation is rooted in Chinese philosophy which holds that a balanced consumption of the "five flavors" leads to the proper development of the five senses. A sixth flavor distinction is called umami which means a "rich" or "hearty" flavor.

Each spring at the close of the saké-brewing season, the National Tax Agency conducts regional new saké appraisal competitions called Shinshu Kanpyoukai. Then the Saké Brewing Research Center (a division of the tax department) holds its national championship Zenkoku Shinshu Kanpyoukai and the winning breweries, which compete in a variety of categories, are awarded gold medals called Kinshou Nyuushooshu.

In addition to official competitions and saké tastings, individual kura or breweries and some Japanese restaurants conduct both formal and informal saké tasting events throughout the year.